Thursday, September 22, 2011

Chuseok, Part Deux


day 2: mokpo, home sweet home

we couldn’t resist buying bikes—i chose the painfully slow, but oh-so-cute mint green cruiser & aaron opted for a lime green bike with 20” wheels (gangsta, eh?).  mokpo is fairly bike friendly, with lots of sidewalks & bike paths, but every trip is like an obstacle course, replete with omnipresent pedestrians, various makeshift food stalls, and near-collisions with the random cars and motorbikes that seemingly appear out of nowhere.  needless to say, riding on the road is out of the question--traffic laws here are vague, if not practically non-existent.  it only takes about 20 minutes to bike from our apartment to our school, and we can criss-cross the city without any serious effort.  accident-prone as i am, i’ve already managed to fall and scrape up my knee—accomplishing such a feat on a cruiser is no easy matter ;)




exploring mokpo:


foggy mokpo harbor








gatbawi rock & mt. yibamsan:

gatbawi rock
the one on the right kinda looks like darth vader
 
mt. yibamsan in the background


mascots of mokpo!







top of mt. yibamsan













day 3: chuseok!

koreans exchange presents, usually food-related, during chuseok, so we were lucky enough to receive a crate of frozen mackerel & enough dried seaweed (keem) to last us until next august.  all the stores, even the 7-11's, are stuffed to the gills with various gift boxes, containing everything from asian pears to dirt-caked ginseng.  one in particular caught our eye:




yep. it's your garden variety spam, all gussied up and ready to party.  weep, ye people of walmart, for your beloved spiced ham has moved on to bigger and better things!  (no offense to all you secret spam-lovers out there)


WARNING! food porn ahead!


our manager invited us to eat chuseok dinner at her grandparents’ apartment.  they live on the top floor of our school, and her grandma tends to all the nearby gardens.  the food was amazing—sweet beef ribs, the BEST kimchi (perfectly salty and spicy, with that almost carbonated flavor that is characteristic of true kimchi mastery), tofu soup, and raw crab (a mokpo specialty), followed by fresh fruit and a traditional fermented sweet rice drink for dessert.  all the tables except ours were divided up by gender—a remnant of older times, i suppose.  strangely enough, contrary to hallowed american tradition, no one ate themselves into a coma.  as much as i love korean food, i’ve gotta admit, the whole experience left me jonesing for some stuffing.  anyone want to fedex a box of stovetop to korea?  just kidding.  sort of.









tofu soup


raw marinated crab


various veggies--maybe ferns??


sweet beef ribs


tempura crab-stuffed peppers, squid & shrimp

Tuesday, September 13, 2011

Happy Chuseok!

first off, our apologies for the sporadic updates!  we recently moved into a new two-room apartment, a nice step up from our former studio (although sadly lacking its delightfully tacky neon green cabinets).  unfortunately, while we doubled our living space, we have been forced to temporarily relinquish some of the finer things in life, namely internet access and hot water.  so it's been a week full of reddit/fashion blog withdrawals and showers accompanied by bloodcurdling screams/resentful yelps.  first world problems, eh?


on the bright side, we also had a four-day weekend in honor of the korean holiday chuseok (choo-suck), which is a harvest festival similar to american thanksgiving.  everyone streams out of the larger cities and heads for grandma's house, where the kimchi is always perfectly fermented.  this mass exodus means that traveling during chuseok is something akin to purgatory--i.e. endless waiting.  as a result, we decided to stay close to home.


day 1: gwangju, a mere one-hour bus ride away (5,400 won each way)  


gwangju is a city of just under 1.5 million people, so it offers a few more attractions than our beloved mokpo.  gwangju is supposed to have excellent kimchi, and they host a festival every october to celebrate this claim--we will report back when the time comes!  during this visit, we decided to check out the design biennale, an event hosted every two years.  we wandered for several hours before happening upon the biennale hall.  along the way we discovered golden rabbits coffee, a veritable cache of "engrish."










a stanza from the coffee cantata: by j.s. bach (haha...just googled this...apparently it exists)
ah, how sweet coffee tastes! lovelier than a thousand kisses, smoother than muscatel wine.  coffee, coffee, i must have it, and should anyone wish to give me a treat, ah! just pour me some coffee!


the theme of the 2011 biennale is "design is design is not design," a tongue-twister to say the least.  it features everything from computer code to a comme des garcons-influenced fort of sorts.










mmmm...cheezy ramen!






comme des garcons exhibit






















exhibit on how to counterfeit $$$...i'm rich bitch!


mascots of the japanese police


scary!


human factory






docent


debris from japanese tsunami


soju coffin






buxom blonde














energy drinks, collected at rest stops between seoul & busan & sorted by price/calories


super energy now! combo of all the drinks on the wall


low-cost prosthetic limbs


death penalty exhibit






carved out of books






urban bicycle storage solution...you move the wheel using an exercise bike






video game featuring evil steve jobs...commentary on the sourcing of parts/labor for today's technology






subtle funhouse mirrors...creepy since i just finished ray bradbury's something wicked this way comes


phone booth






low-cost housing "cages" in hong kong




 days 2 & 3 coming soon!